North Berkeley Imports: The February Load

So remember my post last month about North Berkeley Imports and how they’ve been so important to me in terms of Burgundy and Rhone wines and how they personally go over to France and hand select barrels and to say their line-up of French wines are a study in perfection is an understatement.  Remember that?  Also, remember how I wrote that within the last few years NBI has expanded to include some first rate Italians?  And, I also wrote about how I headed west last month to attend NBI’s portfolio tasting.  Well, I am thrilled that the wines I went out and tasted are starting to show up and I am here to tell you this: I, Jon Smith, stake my professional reputation on the quality, purity and vibrancy of these wines.  The 2007 Southern French wines that are coming in are an embarrasing wealth of riches and the new Italians from NBI are everything that is good and true about the Italian wine trade and I am thrilled to start bringing these wines in store.  Now you’re going to see a lot more of these wines, so I didn’t go bat shit crazy with new wines.  I only brought in about a 60 or so cases of a dozen new wines to start, but the wines I brought in should be on your radar and, most important, on your wine rack. Here’s the skinny on what came in:

France:

07 Clos du Mont-Olivet Côtes du Rhône “Varene”  $19.99
This wine is without a doubt, one of the most exciting, energetic and complete wines I’ve had from the 2007 vintage in the Southern Rhone. I’ve had it three times now in the last two months and I’m more amazed with the wine each time I drink it.  Made from an estate that makes arguably the reference point for Chateauneuf-du-Pape, this is a 100% Syrah that “will instantly impress with its black-fruited core and endless intensity on the finish” (per the importer).  Think of it as Hermitage meets the Southern Rhone; the power and grace of Syrah grown in the Northern Rhone with the intensity and verve of wines from the Southern Rhone. This wine is “a palate-staining mouthful black fruits and spice.”  In a tasting last month of over 80 wines from North Berkeley Imports this was one of the stars of the show indeed.  For $20 this is a wine that shows everything you want (and need) from the Rhone Valley.  Read this sentence very slowly: This wine is stunning!  I bought a case for my collection.  If I were you, I’d make a bee-line for the 5 cases I have of this wine.

07 Domaine Michel Magnien Bourgogne Rouge, $19.99
Michel Magnien is a grape grower in Burgundy who makes wine with his son, Frederic.  Michel owns 27 acres, including vineyards within some significant grand cru and premier cru sites.  This ’07 shows a silkier, prettier side of Burgundy whole still showing a beautiful structure.  For those of you who have been getting more and more and more . . . .and more discouraged by the prices of red Burgundy need to grab a few bottles of the wine Alan Meadows called “a fresh, bright and relatively elegant nose of earthy red berry fruit aromas leads to precise, pretty and pure middle weight flavors that possess both fine depth and length. This is a lovely Bourgogne and recommended.”

07 Mattes-Sabran Corbières “Dionysos”,  $14.99
My old friend Guideaux Pelleteri would have called this wine “high on the sluggability scale.”  That is not to say the wine isn’t serious, it is, but rather this intense, spicy, rich southern French blend is “effortlessly gulpable” even despite the dark fruit, the spiciness, the elegant tannin and the powerful finish.  This estate  produces this wine only in the finest years for sure 2007 was it!

08 Domaine de Noire Chinon “Soif de Tendresse” Rouge,  $14.99
This wine defines the Spirit of our “Just Trust Me” rack.  It’s a Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley and its one of the most perfectly drinkable wines I’ve had in a long, long, long time.   Incredibly vibrant and fresh, and a knock-out in terms of price/quality.  Parker thought so too, giving the wine 90 points and saying  “ . . . Essence of fresh, juicy, tart blackberries tinged with ginger, pepper, salt, and thyme inform the nose and a palate of vibratory energy and exhilarating invigoration in the finish such as one seldom encounters in a red wine. ”

07 Domaine du Dragon “Cuvée St. Michel”,  $21.99
(I went to start my write up on this wine, but I love what NBI has to say about it) Southern power, Bordeaux class—everything you could want in a rich, palate-staining red is here with the added punch of a landmark vintage to make it a treasure for the cellar, too. A blend of 50% Syrah, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Grenache (for that added kick of spice), aged in Burgundian barrels. Stunning aromas of black fruits and licorice; flavors of blackberries and plums melt and mellow over a spicy layer of cinnamon and vanilla spice. Wonderfully intense and complex, yet fresh through and through—this is what every southern red wishes it could be. A lingering finish of pepper and soy-seared steak may make you think twice—what’s more appropriate here, a bib or a knife? Very delicious.

Italy:

07 Nicodemi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo,  $13.99
Allessandro and (the stunning) Elena Nicodemi are a brother and sister team who have taken over their father’s estate in Abruzzo and are bringing in modern winemaking practices.  The result are wines that pay off handsomely for the price. This Montepulciano is silky, elegant and long on the palate and tastes like it should cost twice the price. A great example of tradition and innovation combining for a winning result.

06 Villa Ritina Sangiovese di Toscana,  $15.99
This is the epitome of Tuscany in a bottle: Balance, Charm, Grace, Power and Style  A black pepper aroma gives it up to the cherries and plum which gives it up to a lush, silky finish. 100% Sangiovese (no bull shit Merlot getting in the way) was grown in the heart of Tuscany and is just perfect with a plate of salami, dry cheese and olives.  For what you want a true Tuscan wine to be, it just doesn’t get any better.

07 Poderi del Paradiso Chianti Colli Senesi, $14.99
Well, hell: Robert Parker and I agree on something.  He wrote that “Podere del Paradiso one of the most pleasant discoveries of this year’s tastings of new Tuscan releases” and at last month’s tasting I thought so too!  This Chianti from Colli Senesi is also made of 100% Sangiovese with just the right amount of spice and complexity.   Made from pristine estate vineyards in and around San Gimignano the wine is concentrated, rich fruit with loads of juicy power.  Textbook Chianti.  Textbook.

07 Quintale Aglianico Sannio, $15.99
So after two Chiantis, in the words of John Cleese . . .   This wine is from Southern Italy and few other red wines share Aglianico’s concentration and vibrancy, a nod to the volcanic soils on which its vines thrive.  The importer deftly points out that higher levels of dry extract—the essence of flavor in a wine—means Aglianico packs more punch than even Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon. This knock-out southern red combines all the power of Italy’s Aglianico with an added juiciness and tamed tannins for early, easy drinking.  A big wine for sure, but very approachable and wonderfully fruity.

08 Quintale Asprinio di Aversa, $14.99
All I know is that when I tasted this wine my note were: PERFECT NOLA WHITE!  The rest I’ll defer to NBI because what I know about Asprinio is, well, what I know about that one wine I tasted.  Asprinio is a white grape indigenous to Campania in southern Italy, was historically used to make a champagne-styled wine. Today it has become popular as a still, dry white that characteristically delivers brisk, citrus-infused flavors and a steely edge—very refreshing. Aromas of pear skin, lemon zest and white pepper on the nose; the mouth is melted lemon gelato, with gorgeous honeysuckle notes and a whiplash of quince and lime zest on the finish. Vibrant and alive.

08 Alberice Friulano Friuli, $15.99
You heard it here first, Pinot Grigio is jumping the shark.  I can’t sit by any longer and watch Pinot Grigio slowly tick up in price to the high teens while continuing to dilute itself in quality along side other interesting, estate grown Italian white varietals.  You blew it Pinot Grigio.  You had it and you blew it.  You can’t compete with wines like this elegant, refreshing white that is great with food, great by itself and wine that speaks to origin and quality.  Pinot Grigio, it’s over.  I hope you’re happy with yourself.

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