A Cure for the Summertime Blues
Hey there party people, I’m here to tell you about a grape that makes wine just i-flipping-DEAL for the New Orleans summertime.
The grape in question is Falanghina (the h is silent) and it is a de-light in the summer. It hails from the southern Italian wine region of Campania, a region that has much in common with the heat of a New Orleans summertime. Falanghina is an ancient grape that seemingly only grows well in the stark, hot, rocky climate of Campania and I was first introduced to its magical powers at a wine fair in Tuscany in July of 2006. With a heat index of damn near 115 and not a speck of A/C in sight drinking down this glass of Falanghina felt like diving into a refreshing pool of cool water, literally. Maybe I was crazy from the heat, maybe the wine was just that good – regardless the wine was the perfect balance of dryness and fruit, neither one being too dominant and it really shows how well done a hot climate white can be made to pair with both food AND environment.
There’s one in particular I’m in love with and just brought a decent slug into Cork & Bottle.
2009 Cantina del Taburno Falanghina, $16.99
This wine was harvested last fall and spent a scant 2 months maturing in stainless steel tanks, preserving the freshness of the fruit. The wine was bottled and away it went to us. The flavor of the wine is just an absolute delight. It really shows the white calcareous soil of Campania with a load of austere minerality on the nose which combines nicely with its slightly fresh, fruity, ripe pear, pineapple-ish nose (and just a hint of herbs too).
It will be a perfect match with light pasta and seafood of all forms (for better or worse at this point). In fact, I think I might spy in my future a little fresh pasta from Dan Esses mixed with some olive oil, sea salt and cherry tomatoes from Jim Core at the Crescent City Farmer’s Market enjoyed with a glass or three of this Falanghina this afternoon. Care to join me?
PS – As a side note the Roman writer/philosopher Pliny the Elder who is credited with coining the phrase “In Vino Veritas” (there is truth in wine) met his demise in an erupting volcano in Campania. I wonder if he was drinking Falanghina.
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Sounds like Pliny the Elder might be directly responsible for some of that austere minerality…